WHAT is couture? A lot of people think that couture needs to be all about the handiwork and matching the very strict measures put in place by the The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. I would argue it’s more than that… When people think about craftsmanship - that is important. But it’s also about whether or not the garment looks like ready-to-wear or haute couture. And for something to capture the essence of being haute couture, it’s so much more than adding embellishment or beads or feathers to a dress to make it appear luxurious. True couture is in the quality of the fabrics, the expert tailoring, the next-level detailing and then how much the maison guards couture clients to get first dibs on a look, and own the look forever. Because it’s not haute to see your couture dress worn by anyone else. The price may be high but that’s what exclusivity is all about.

This autumn/winter 2024 haute couture show season, many designers paid homage to the Olympics. It was effective, if on occasions a little forced as a cultural reference. Then again, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri has referenced the Olympics before and done so with charm. Below are my show notes, and a special selection of runway looks from the haute couture AW24 season that stood out to me as being the epitome of couture, fantastical creations worth every hundredth bead/hour of craft, and deserving of respect and applause.

Thom Browne’s look with gold beads, the muscle embroidered on the body, and the tulle is nothing short of stunning. This could be the closest that Thom has done to wearable couture pieces that I think he has ever created. Beautiful. Looks in Browne’s collection were like a deconstructed version of an old collection that Oscar de la Renta had created for Balmain Couture, especially the garments that looked like a Fabergé egg (people often forget that Oscar did Balmain’s haute couture collection from 1993 to 2002).

Dior Haute Couture AW24 - Maria Grazia Chiuri certainly seems to get people perplexed, doesn’t she? I chose these runway looks (not that they are new or especially compelling) but I loved the sports aspects she brought to couture. This collection captured the spirit of the moment in Paris with the upcoming games in a very modern and contemporary way. Dior is not necessarily my first choice to go to for couture but I always find something I J’Dior.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW24 - This collection moved away from the more in-your-face viral moments that peaked in the maison’s previous shows. This season's offering was true couture in the way that we understand it. It wasn't about creating buzz.

Zuhair Murad cut sharp silhouettes on the runway this season with his signature embellishments celebrating the female form, as per. I’ve picked my favorite look from his new-season couture collection above that I would wear time and again.

One of the favorites of the season, and one of my favorites - Jean Paul Gaultier Couture by Courrèges’ Nicolas Di Felice Autumn/Winter 2024. It is the most vivid collection of the season. Love what this guy did here! If I was buying couture this right now I would go to this collection.

Ashi Studio - his strength is when he doesn’t get inspired by others or when he doesn’t heavily reference others. The two pieces I chose feel more individual to him. He designed the air attendants’ outfits for Riyadh Air too that showcased this season and it’s a stunning set of looks he crafted there too.

Stéphane Rolland - The Arab market has always loved him. He always sketched directly for clients, he never asked an assistant to do it for him and I think that detail has been noted. The work that has gone into this couture collection and the details on the back are stunning. Why is this designer not more widely celebrated in the industry? Although the clientele is there. 

Giambattista Valli - The look that stands out for me is the floral dress that has the essence of Emanuel Ungaro all over it - I don’t how many people realize it or remember the original reference (whether by chance or not). 

Chanel proves that it has such a strong brand identity behind it that it can produce a show without a creative director behind it. This has been said by many others but it is worth saying again because there was something soft about this couture collection that reminded me of the essence of Gabrielle Coco Chanel. Charming and so chic.

Alexis Mabille - I have known Alexis for a long time… He was originally known for being the creator of darling garments adorned with ribbons or bowties in his first collection and my first pick from his latest couture collection is a beautiful dress indeed. Bravo.

Armani/Privé Haute Couture AW24 - Oh, wow - this was one of the strongest collections the house has done in years. Beautiful and truly Armani. The man is turning 90 on July 11th - he gets my vote for the most beautiful collection and for casting the most wonderful models too. I can see this collection translate very well on the red carpet.

Elie Saab’s couture collection reminds me of the Jazz Age. While there is a lot of pomp and ceremony, I love the way this creation is draped on the model. It is very chic.

Balenciaga - There certainly is a lot of uproar about Balenciaga. Demna has his own opinion on things and how he does couture and why. He is a Creative Director that likes to play and riff off the codes of the fashion house and his disdain for the ordinary. The fact that you have upside pants on this dress is a daring idea. I’m not saying people should go for it but I love the guts of it for a couture season.

By Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz

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