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#FashionHistory101
March 11, 2025
Fashion History 101: Kohl, Forever
A smudgy line that can change the game, or at least your outfit
Audrey Hepburn, Still from Charade (1963). Shutterstock.
ARE you wondering what beauty item can make eyes smolder with a single stroke and has been doing so for over 4,000 years? Enter kohl. Whether you call it kohl, kajal, or that magical black liner you can’t live without, this tiny makeup hero has journeyed from the temples of ancient Egypt to being a permanent fixture on the runway. And oh, what a journey it’s been.
Glamour with a Side of Protection: Ancient Egypt’s Eye Game
Kohl didn’t just happen; it arrived. The Egyptians knew how to make an entrance, and their use of kohl wasn’t merely for beauty. Cleopatra, Nefertiti, and their glamorous contemporaries lined their eyes in bold, dramatic strokes. Not just to look fabulous, but to shield their eyes from the fierce desert sun and, supposedly, ward off the evil eye. Egyptian men and women both wore it and it quickly became an essential part of their appearance. Galena powder was mixed with oils to create this magical concoction that defined their looks and their lives. Who knew makeup could be this powerful? It became an integral part of daily life for many cultures, its significance extended beyond aesthetics, it symbolized protection, purity, and even religious piety.
But the Egyptians weren’t alone in their kohl craze. From North Africa to South Asia, people were getting in on the action, using kohl to frame their eyes and express both beauty and a bit of mystery. It became a fashionable beauty standard and a global obsession long before anyone could say "runway."
Look 38/63, Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 22/45, Richard Quinn Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 32/42 Nensi Dojaka Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 8/30, Roksanda Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 8/47, Erdem Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 32/71, Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 26/50, Prada Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 4/52, Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 27/49, The Attico Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 27/49, Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 49/49, Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 24/54, Gucci Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 43/60, Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 27/58, Loewe Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 16/58, Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 8/44, Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 67/77, Chanel Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Look 7/14, Harris Reed Spring/Summer 2025. Shutterstock
Deena By Larroudé Pump
Look 31/49, Thom Browne Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 42/49, Thom Browne Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 4/62, Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 48/62, Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Dior Haute Couture
Look 28/31, Schiaparelli Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Schiaparelli Haute Couture
Look 30/31, Schiaparelli Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Schiaparelli Haute Couture
Look 33/47, Zuhair Murad Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 11/33, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture by Courrèges’ Nicolas Di Felice Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture
Look 17/33, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture by Courrèges’ Nicolas Di Felice Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture
Look 29/33, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture by Courrèges’ Nicolas Di Felice Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture
Look 10/29, Ashi Studio Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 14/29, Ashi Studio Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 3/32, Stéphane Rolland Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 22/32, Stéphane Rolland Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 20/35, Giambattista Valli Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 32/35, Giambattista Valli Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 39/46, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Chanel
Look 43/46, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 26/42, Alexis Mabille Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 46/90, Armani/Privé Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 69/90, Armani/Privé Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 89/90, Armani/Privé Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 22/65, Elie Saab Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock
Look 28/39, Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Balenciaga
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Audrey Hepburn, Still from How To Steal A Million (1966). Shutterstock.
Taif, Saudi Arabia. Shutterstock
Gulf waters. Shutterstock
An oasis in Saudi Arabia. Shutterstock.
King Fahd Road in Sarawat mountains near Al Baha, Saudi Arabia. Shutterstock
Jeddah, Saudi Arabia in 2022. Shutterstock
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia at night. Shutterstock
Neom desert in Bajdah, Saudi Arabia. Shutterstock
Jabal Daka in Taif, Saudi Arabia. Shutterstock.
Sophia Loren looking into mirrors at home, 1957. Photographed by Sanford Roth
Natalie Wood, 1966. Photographed by Curt Gunther
Elizabeth Taylor, 1952. Photographed by Philippe Halsman
Judy Garland backstage in her dressing room at Carnegie Hall, 1961. Photographed by Milton Greene
Romy Schneider, 1967. Photographed by Luc Fournol
Marilyn Monroe, 1955. Photographed by Sam Shaw.
The Hollywood Glamour Era and Beyond
As the 1920s rolled along, kohl made its way into Western culture and was soon stealing the spotlight, quite literally. The kohl-lined, smoky eye was adopted by silent film stars like Theda Bara and Marlene Dietrich to amp up their on-screen drama. If you weren’t lining your eyes like an Egyptian by then, were you even Hollywood?
Brigitte Bardot and Audrey Hepburn, redefined the cat eye in the 1960s and turned it into a makeup staple. It created a mysterious and exotic allure associated with glamour and intrigue in Western beauty ideals. Kohl wasn’t just a product anymore; it became an attitude, a style, and an era in itself.
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Left: Zuhair Murad, Paris Fashion Week Women's FW 21/21 | Right: Elizabeth Taylor, Still from Cleopatra (1963). Shutterstock.
Enduring Allure of Kohl
What really sets kohl apart from your average eyeliner? Its story. While many modern beauty products are about looking good, kohl’s legacy is tied to history, spirituality, and even health. It was worn by queens, warriors, and ordinary people alike, each contributing a chapter to the tale of this incredible little powder. From protection against the sun to warding off bad vibes, kohl wasn’t just about style; it was about survival. And today, it’s still helping us feel fabulous. Kohl’s history is a symbol of resilience and a shared human desire to express beauty and seek protection.
Kohl Today: From Tradition to Runway
So, you might wonder, where does kohl stand in 2025? It’s simultaneously a classic staple for chic women and yet, when applied well, it can futureproof any face. The leading makeup artists - Pat McGrath and Val Garland to name but two - may flip between dewy skin and pared back eye makeup but every few collections they formulate a makeup look that has eyeliner as its centrepiece.
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Kaia Gerber, Tom Ford Show, Backstage, Fall Winter 2018, New York Fashion Week, USA. 08 Feb 2018. Carl Timpone. Shutterstock.
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Deenathe1st & Larroudé shoe collection is out now. Photographed by Kevin Tachman. All Rights Reserved.
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Deenathe1st & Larroudé shoe collection is out now. Photographed by Kevin Tachman. All Rights Reserved.
Deenathe1st & Larroudé shoe collection is out now. Photographed by Kevin Tachman. All Rights Reserved.
Deenathe1st & Larroudé shoe collection is out now. Photographed by Kevin Tachman. All Rights Reserved.
The So-Now Way To Wear Your Eyeliner?
Simple: master the foundational base makeup to suit your skin complexion and consider the climate (matte bases can melt in high heat so go for dewy, light foundation and creamy blush/bronzers). Keep eyeshadow light and dust kohl underneath the eyes, mainly from the outer corner and taper it inwards towards the center. This ensures you open up the eye rather than narrow your eye shape. Then add a fine line of liquid eyeliner to your upper lid that emulates the natural shape of your eye - simply finish with a fine flick. Lashings of carbon black mascara finish the look. Add as much clear lip gloss as you can manage. That’s an elegant approach to kohl, oozing nowness.
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