TakeOne

July 2, 2024

Deena’s Take One Photograph: YSL Parfums’ Iconic ’81 Ad

How does one image move thousands of people?

Yves Saint Laurent Parfums, Un Parfum Et Une Robe Signés Yves. Advertising campaign, circa 1981-1983

THE PHOTOGRAPH:

Yves Saint Laurent Parfums, Un Parfum Et Une Robe Signés Yves. Advertising campaign, circa 1981-1983.

The behind-the-scenes story:

1964: Yves Saint Laurent launched his first fragrance, Y; a “lush, heavy, and languid perfume”. The original bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand and represented a woman’s head and shoulders, with the name ‘Y’ aptly placed in position on the neckline. Y, a green chypre fragrance, was composed by Yves and perfumer Jean Amic. It also includes a flurry of peach, honey, galbanum as top notes; rose, jasmine, orris, and ylang-ylang as heart notes, and basenotes of amber, patchouli, vetiver, and oakmoss.

By 1971 Yves had launched Y Pour Homme and Rive Gauche perfumes (the original packaging being a tin can - most revolutionary for the time), to represent different facets of his growing customer base.

Nearly sixteen years after its first launch, the adverts for Y parfum focused on the bold principles of the fashion house and its clientele - strong, audacious, modern. Y stands alongside Chanel No5 (launched in 1921) as a proof that the right fragrance can capture the mood of an entire fashion house, the mood of more than one era, and be the most vital finishing touch.

Look 31/49, Thom Browne Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 42/49, Thom Browne Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 4/62, Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 48/62, Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Dior Haute Couture

Look 28/31, Schiaparelli Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Schiaparelli Haute Couture

Look 30/31, Schiaparelli Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Schiaparelli Haute Couture

Look 33/47, Zuhair Murad Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 11/33, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture by Courrèges’ Nicolas Di Felice Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

Look 17/33, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture by Courrèges’ Nicolas Di Felice Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

Look 29/33, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture by Courrèges’ Nicolas Di Felice Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

Look 10/29, Ashi Studio Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 14/29, Ashi Studio Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 3/32, Stéphane Rolland Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 22/32, Stéphane Rolland Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 20/35, Giambattista Valli Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 32/35, Giambattista Valli Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 39/46, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Chanel

Look 43/46, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 26/42, Alexis Mabille Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 46/90, Armani/Privé Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 69/90, Armani/Privé Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 89/90, Armani/Privé Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 22/65, Elie Saab Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. Shutterstock

Look 28/39, Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2024. Courtesy of Balenciaga

Portrait of the prolific designer, Yves Saint Laurent wearing one of his own creations. Shutterstock | Yves Saint Laurent, photographed by Sharok Hatami/Shutterstock

Interesting detail:

From the first sketch of the fragrance’s bottle - now stored in the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris - the Y features across the full length of the glass bottle. The dark lid was shaded in two different grades of graphite pencil. What is abundantly clear about this first-thought sketch is the intention for boldness. The arms of the letter Y symbolize the dramatic charisma of a leading lady stretching in confidence.

Deena describes… “I remember the very first time I saw this image - it was a symbol of a world I wanted to be a part of. I was captivated. It stands for timeless elegance and effortless style… The outline of the woman is so cleverly shot. Who is she? She looks so strong and full of true confidence. This image represents a new blend of femininity and something to aspire to.”